Puzhehei

Jiang Zilong

People are used to looking down at the water. It is unimaginable to stand on the edge of the Bohai Sea and look up into the air. There is a huge ocean of water hanging in the air more than 2,000 meters high. In fact, looking at Puzhehei from Tianjin, Puzhehehei is exactly at a height of more than 2,000 meters southwest of Tianjin.

Puzhehei-Yi dialect: "a place with fish and shrimp".

It is a plateau lake like jade in southeast Yunnan, belonging to Qiubei County. Our car got lost in the city of Qiubei County and asked several local people about it. At this time, a young man walking in a hurry with a stack of materials under his armpit led us out of the county seat. When we got off the bus to express our thanks, we found out that he was the deputy magistrate of Qiubei County.

-- This is our first impression of Puzhehei.

Yunnan is the big brother of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, and the mountainous plateau accounts for 94% of the total area of the province. It is conceivable that the more you drill in the mountains of Yunnan by car, the bigger the mountain. Looking up is scenery, looking down is danger, "one cannot be poor for a thousand miles, and twists and turns with the mountains". Airplanes make the world smaller, and cars make Yunnan bigger. When you are bumped by a car and your back is sore, your hips are stiff, your face is gray and your lips are dry, and you suddenly fall into a cool blue water, what kind of enjoyment will it be?-I felt like this when I saw Puzhehei.

I couldn't bear to dirty the lake water when I wanted to wash my face with water, so I sat by the lake and watched the water wash dust. The sky is approaching dusk, and the lake is full of light and smoke. In the smoke wave, a green peak protrudes, the mountain is in the water, the water is in the mountain, the water surrounds the mountain, and the mountain leads the water around. The mountains are deep green, the water is clear green, the shadow is shaken, the imaginary is uncertain, and it is intoxicating and obsessed. The wind and dust all the way, the bumpy day, see puzhehei is worth it. I am no longer hot, from the inside to the outside all feel calm and cool.

The bonfire party after dinner was also held by the lake. Young men and women of Zhuang, Yi, Miao, Yao and other ethnic groups sang, danced, laughed or made fun, and sometimes attracted tourists to participate. My companions and I were dragged into the venue to make a fool of ourselves. No matter young or old, no matter the nationality, everyone is affected by the atmosphere. They go crazy and sing, laugh and make a lot of noise. They don't know what the night is and who I am... It's rare for the city people to have such a good time, or the young men and women of these ethnic minorities are enviable. Compared with their simple and happy life, at least they often have the opportunity to be happy and selfless-that's what I felt to me at that at that, perhaps they also have their own troubles, but thank them for bringing into the happiness of selflessness those who have never met but have all kinds of expectations from all corners of the world. Even if it's short. Isn't it this kind of great happiness and great emotion that we are looking for in the end?

Hot, hot, in the black shore of the huge darkness, burning out a red pillar of indomitable light. My heart seems to have such a bright pillar of light. When they also insisted that I sing, I hummed a few words of "Flowers and Boys", and I somehow remembered the lyrics I liked decades ago: "The peony is the king of flowers, the most beautiful among people. Several teenagers......"

There is no need to buy a ticket to attend the bonfire party in Puzhehei. It is free to come and go, with a kind of primitive sincerity, simplicity and wild interest-so this happiness has no price, is real and deep, and can never be forgotten.

Now there are not many places where free can give you great happiness. Some bonfire parties are mainly based on eating, called "seafood barbecue", which attracts you to spend more with fire, that is, the so-called "eating and drinking are not afraid of expedition difficulties". The bonfire parties in folk villages all over the country can only be watched by buying tickets, and the ticket prices are not cheap. It is "watching the fire from the other side" to watch the performance as an audience, which is not the same as the fun you can enjoy by such a bonfire.

The next morning, according to the schedule, we will swim in the lake. I longed for a trip to the lake of Puzhehei, but I was worried that I would take an oil liner-riding that rumbling behemoth, not like a lake, but more like an invader and saboteur on the water. Because I can't forget the scene I saw in Qiandao Lake: after the big passenger ship, there are large pieces of oil stars and cans, plastic bags, paper scraps, empty boxes and other waste and dirt floating on the blue water. The scenery of Yansai Lake in Hebei is no less than that of Qiandao Lake in Zhejiang Province. After several years of opening, it was polluted beyond recognition, so we had to close the gate into the lake... But I don't know how many years it will take for Yansai Lake to become its original appearance, and it may never recover its original clarity and cleanness... The scenery of Halong Bay in Vietnam is not beautiful, with the reputation of "Stone Forest on the Sea, just because we are a passenger tour, and there are always small merchant ships selling aquatic products and shellfish on both sides, the cries are endless, which makes me feel that I can't integrate into the scenery of Halong Bay.

Thankfully, there are no motor boats on Puzhehei Lake, only small willow-shaped wooden boats lined up. Five people can sit on each boat, with tourists paddling their own oars and the owner at the helm. The owners of the boat I chose were two young men of the Yi nationality. After boarding the boat, they were still brothers. My brother A Liang was sitting in the bow with an oar and my brother A Mu was at the helm in the stern. This provided double insurance for our water boat.

The heavens are also fulfilled. Light clouds and mist cover the sun, like yin but not yin, light mist and empty, which does not affect the vision and avoids a sun exposure. Dozens of small boats fluttered like a scattered arrow shot into the depths of Puzhehei one after another. Tourists shouted and clapped their oars to hit the water. People were amused and shocked flocks of waterfowl. Gradually, everyone was fascinated by the scenery on the lake. Their eyes could not see it, and their mouths could not speak. The water began to calm down, and the distance between the boats was also opened. They were really scattered like leaves in the lake, and the stars were drowned in the waves and clouds. I saw the peak pitch, Pinghu a mirror. The water light overlaps the mountain shadow, the lake looks at the mountain more secluded, the reflection is psychedelic green haze, the mountain hides the lake sink cuibi.

The magic of creation is inexplicable-you said that the characteristic of plateau lakes is to immerse thousands of mountains in water, right? But boating in Puzhehei has no feeling of being on the plateau, with farmers driving alone to dig pig grass in the lake, and women washing vegetables and cutting fish by the lake, which is a distinct pastoral scene. In particular, the patches of wild giant lotus that looked out at the sky covered the water, and the lotus produced smoke. I asked A Liang to row the boat into the lotus array. The boat pushed the waves and the lingxiang floated. I believe that I have seen the scenery that poets born 500 years ago can only see: "When the boat enters the trouble, there is no face, and the red lotus is intoxicated with the white lotus."

Puzhehei is a piece of living water. I checked the map and found that it is part of the Nanpan River system. The Nanpan River finally flows into the Pearl River and can float downstream from Puhei to Guangzhou and Zhuhai. There are more than 60 lakes in Puzhehei, 286 flooded Qingfeng and 240 karst caves on the island. It can be said that the beautiful scenery of the world, such as mountains, water, forests, caves and countryside, is in his arms. In such a real and picturesque realm, I think there are still some shortcomings, or what should be done to live up to this landscape. What is missing or what should be, I can't think clearly at the moment......

At this time, singing came from the boat in the distance. As soon as the singing stopped in the distance, our boatman said, "I am the stove, you are the pot, you are the rabbit, I want to drive uphill..." The lyrics were later translated to me by him in Mandarin. He sang in Yi language, which I could not understand, but felt physically and mentally relaxed. His singing is extremely high-pitched, tactful, and full of appeal and penetrating power. Not only the people on our ship, but I believe the whole Puzhehei was felt, and the boats in all directions began to move closer to us.

I deeply feel that I am lucky to be on the right boat and on the right person. It is absolutely difficult to hear such a good song in the city. It is natural, innocent, eloquent and changeable. I said to myself: complete, too complete. Beautiful scenery, beautiful voice, beautiful feeling, beautiful people.

As soon as A Liang started singing, no one answered on the lake, so he sang one song after another. Sometimes the younger brother sitting in the stern takes over from him to sing a few songs. Although he sings well, he is far worse than his brother......

Taking advantage of the boat leaning against an island to see the deep hole, I bought mineral water for their brothers to moisten their throats. He also learned that A Liang was almost the "king of songs" of Puzhehei. When he proposed, he sang with his wife on the mountain for three days and three nights. According to the customs of the Yi nationality, you can't sing again after you get married. Today, we, admirers from afar, are in the heart of the lake. It probably won't cause misunderstanding among the unmarried girls, so we dare to let go of the singing voice and sing quickly. I used the word "worship" after consideration. At that time, my feelings for A Liang were probably the same as those of "fans" when they saw the singers they worshipped. At present, there is no singer who can arouse my like for Aryan.

We didn't finish our tour of the lake until noon. I know that A Liang and his team have to queue for several days to take a chance to tour the lake, and they can only earn more than ten yuan each time. When I said goodbye, I gave them a tip, but they refused with a red face. This made me ashamed. I was afraid that my vulgarity would desecrate the scenery of Puzhehei and the singing and good will of the two brothers.

In other tourist scenic spots, people will chase tourists and ask, do you want to listen to a song? Do you want to take a picture? How much does it cost to sing a song and how much does it cost to take a picture with you. Most of the songs you 've heard before. Last year, I drifted in a river in Zhangjiajie. The price was already agreed and the deposit was paid. But when I drifted to the best place, the owner of the rubber raft asked for more money and let us climb to the river bank and walk without more money......

There are many good scenes, and it is difficult to match good scenes with good people.

Fortunately, some of the people in the same trade did not put the money into the hands of the two brothers. They boarded the boat and paddled off the shore of the lake. I stood on the shore and gave birth to a feeling of yiyi. I watched them for a long time and refused to turn around. A Liang, who was far away, also waved his hand. Suddenly he spoke again and sang a song that I had recorded on the ship:

The water on the mountain trickled down

The clouds below the mountain rise

Castle Peak Not Pour Water Not Dry

Puzhei will think of his friends......